Mercado de San Fernando

San Fernando is Lavapiés' market and it's the real version, not the touristy one. Where San Miguel got overtaken by tourism, this one filled up with locals, natural wines, artisan pickles, Extremaduran goat cheese, Vietnamese skewers, Czech beer, and organic bread. You walk in, do a lap, order from three different stalls, eat at a communal table with strangers, walk out feeling like you ate well and cheap. This is Madrid.